Here’s a simple sewing pattern for a pretty and practical fabric basket, using Bosal-in-R-Form fusible foam interfacing to give the completed basket a sturdy sides, without any crunchy stiffness. This tutorial is really great for beginner stitchers, as the sewing involved is quite easy – the basket and lining are cut all in one piece, and the Bosal interfacing is easy to work with. So I’ve written the sewing tutorial with beginners very much in mind, and used a generous seam allowance of 1/2inch to allow for any mistakes – if you are more experienced sewist, just enjoy the nice relaxed sewing experience of working with generous measurements!
If you want to print the sewing pattern, the easiest way is to download this PDF:
Note – if some of this seems a bit familiar, it’s because the last part was published as a mini-tutorial previously. Lots of people have asked me for this pattern though, so I thought I would share the whole thing… generous soul that I am!
- The finished basket will be approximately 10 inches long, 7 inches wide and 5 inches deep.
- This pattern works best with non-directional fabrics.
- The seam allowance is 1/2 inch unless otherwise noted.
- Press all fabrics before you start.
- You will need some single-sided fusible Bosal In R Form, which is widely available for example at Lady Sew and Sew. It seems a very odd product when you get it out of the bag, but don’t be dismayed, it is brilliant to work with and creates really firm sides for your basket. The fusible side of Bosal is the rough side. Once the fabric is fused to the Bosal, it will crinkle a bit as you work, but these iron out very nicely once you have finished your project.
- Cut 1 piece outer fabric measuring 19in by 22in
- Cut 1 piece inner/lining fabric measuring 19in by 22in
- Cut 1 piece single sided fusible Bosal In-R-Form measuring 18in by 21in
- Cut 1 piece woven iron-on interfacing (Vilene G700 is a great choice) measuring 19in by 22in.
Cut squares measuring 5.5in from each of the 4 corners of both pieces of fabric, the Bosal and the interfacing.
Place the rough side of the Bosal, positioned centrally, against the wrong side of the piece of outer fabric. There should be an approximate half inch overlap all the way round.
Pin the Bosal into position, with just one pin near the edge of each of the four sides – like this:
Flip this over so that the fabric is on the top, and take it to the ironing board. Remember, the fabric must be uppermost – NEVER iron directly on the Bosal.
Using a wool setting and no steam, and with gentle pressure, iron the middle section, smoothing the fabric out towards the edges and fusing it to the foam. Once the middle is secure, remove the pins and finish fusing the fabric, remember to carry on pressing from the middle towards the edges to avoid wrinkles and bobbles.
Apply the interfacing to the wrong side of the lining fabric. Use the cotton setting and steam and glide the iron over interfacing, applying gentle pressure, 5 or 6 times.
Take the outer piece, and bring two short sides of one of the corner squares right sides together:
Pin, then stitch with a scant half inch seam, reverse stitching at either end of the seam. You will be tempted to sew along the line of the Bosal – DON’T! Just ignore it (it might be a bit wobbly and keep to the scant half inch seam allowance and don’t worry if you sew over the edge of the Bosal or not). Repeat for the short sides at the other 3 corners. You will have to manipulate the basket quite a lot and the Bosal will wrinkle a bit. Don’t worry, this will iron out later on.
Repeat step 4 with the lining section, this time making the seam a generous 1/2inch (this will allow the lining to sit more neatly inside the basket when finished).
Keep the outer wrong side out and turn the lining right side out. Pop the lining into the outer, and CHECK to see that the seams all line up. Then take the 2 pieces apart again and trim the seams to approx 1/4inch.
Keep the outer section wrong side out, and turn the lining section right side out again. Put the lining into the outer. Starting with the seams, line up the two pieces, pinning at the corners first, and then adding pins at the side. Insert the pins at right angles to the edge of the fabric. You can either finger press the seam allowances open, or press the lining seam allowance to one side, and the outer seam allowance to the other side.
On one of the long edges, mark a section of about 5-6 inches, to remind you to leave a gap in the seam in Step 8.
Take the cover off the base of your sewing machine so that you can use the free arm. Manoeuvre the basket so that part of it is under the free arm so that you can sew round the edge.
Stitch round the edge of the basket with a 1/2in seam – reverse stitching at either end of the seam. Start stitching at the end of the marked section that you made, and finish when you get to the other mark.
Turn the basket right side out through the hole you left in the top edge. Press the seam to create a sharp edge at the top of the basket. Fold the edges of the turning hole in, in the line with the rest of the seam and press. Pin or use a little washable glue to secure the edges of the turning hole.
Position the basket under the presser foot of your sewing machine so that you can work on the INSIDE of the basket:
Adjust the stitch length to about 3mm. Leaving long tail threads, and without reverse stitching, stitch round the top of the basket, about 2-3mm from the seam edge. Work slowly, and stop frequently (with needle down) and manoeuvre the basket so that the edge of the basket sits straight under your needle – it will make all the difference to the finish. When you get back to the start, DON’T back stitch or overlap, leave long tails instead.
Pull all the long threads through to the outer side of the top edge of the basket. Pull bobbin threads until the spool threads show (you can see the loops in the photo) then use a needle to pull them through.
Knot the threads in two pairs:
Take a hand-sewing needle with a large eye, and thread up one pair of threads.
Make a large stitch along the line of stitching and pull the knot between the layers of fabric (in stitchy jargon this is called burying the knot):
Snip off the loose threads:
Repeat for the other two threads.
Finally, fold over the top edge of the basket and give it a really thorough pressing to finish. Here’s another version I made:
Enjoy your sewing, and don’t forget, you can download the pdf for this free sewing pattern for this basket if that’s easier for you.